Instructions for Setting Up an Electric Shower
A Part P qualified plumber should install an electric shower. This is essentially a plumber with some electrical abilities. A regular home DIYer, on the other hand, can usually replace an electrical shower. The plumbing and cabling will be completed. You only need to connect to it. This guide will show you how to
If your new shower has a higher kW rating than your old one, you may need to upgrade your cabling. In that case, you'll need to hire a professional to handle the situation. Similarly, if you have any doubts about whether you've done the right thing at any point, stop working and hire a professional. If this means not taking a shower for a while, so be it.
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Choose a high-quality electric shower that has been designed with ease of installation in mind to make your life easier.
Look for electric showers with multiple cable and plumbing entry points. You should have at least four entry points: top, bottom, side, and back.
It's even better if you have multiple connectors at your disposal. This may appear more complicated, but it actually simplifies your life. This is because it increases the likelihood that your new shower's connections will fit directly over the existing ones.
You also want plenty of free space inside the shower casing so you can move tools. Water swivel connections are an added bonus. At the very least, the connection blocks should be well designed (i.e. e simple to use)
Screwdriver (the type will vary depending on your showers)
Spanner
The pipe wrench
Pencil/Marker/Making Tape (Chinagraph)
Drill (the bit you use will depend on the surface; if you're drilling into tile, use a tile bit)
Rawl plugs
* Silicone sealant
Filler*
* = not always required
You'll also appreciate having an extra pair of hands. At the very least, have someone else hold the shower unit in place while you feed the connections before screwing it to the wall.
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The ten steps to installing an electric shower on your own
Turn off the power and water at the mains.
NB: If you're working with cordless power tools, make sure they're fully charged before you begin. It's even better if you have a fully charged backup battery. You're unlikely to need it, but having it on hand is comforting.
Take out the old shower unit.
In most cases, the solution will be obvious. Simply remove the screws and connectors before lifting the unit away from the wall.
However, if you become confused or simply want some reassurance, pull out your current shower's installation guide. Begin at the end and work your way backwards. If you don't have the installation manual for your current shower, you can probably find it online.
Keep all the removable parts (e.g., the shower head) as you remove it. g screws) in a secure location Set the shower to one side once you've removed it from the wall. Keep it until your new shower is fully installed and operational.
Examine your new shower's water connections. You should be able to fit them directly over the existing connections if possible. If you can't, you'll have to adjust them. If you are unsure about doing this, leave the job and hire a professional. Remember that if you damage the shower at this point, the warranty will not cover it.
Examine the electrical connections in the shower. Examine their placement in relation to the existing cabling. If any changes are required, consider carefully whether you are qualified to make them. If you have any doubts, back out of the job and hire a professional.
Remember that making incorrect electrical connections will not only void your warranty, but it could also kill you.
Mark the location of the unit and its screw holes. A pencil is usually sufficient for this. If it doesn't work, use a marker or put down some masking tape and draw on it. Fill in any holes left by the old shower if necessary.
Drill the holes required for your new shower. If you're going to drill into tile, use a tile bit if you have one. If you don't have one, the next best thing is a masonry bit. If you don't have either of these, your best bet is to purchase one. If necessary, reinstall your old shower until it arrives.
If you are unable or unwilling to do so, your final option is to use a hammer bit. Apply masking tape to your tiles before you begin. Mark the location of the holes on the tape so that you know where to drill. Then drill gently. However, keep in mind that using a hammer bit on tiles is still dangerous. It usually results in broken tiles.
Fill any gaps with silicone sealant once your holes are in place. You may not require sealant, but if you do, it is critical that you use silicone sealant. This is intended for use in wet conditions. Regular sealant will not withstand use in a shower.
Get an assistant if possible for this part.
Feed the pipe and electrical cabling through the backplate of the shower. The shower is then screwed into place. Once the shower is secure, connect the inlet pipe and then the electrical cabling. The live and neutral cores must be connected to the load terminals. The earth core must be linked to the earth terminal.
If you have any doubts about whether you did everything correctly, stop working and hire a professional. As previously stated, you cannot take chances with electrical work, especially in a bathroom.
Replace the cover, screw it in, and install the rubber seal. Join the rail, hose, and handset. Consider the height of the people who will use the shower when positioning these. Try to place them in a location that is convenient for everyone.
Reconnect your electricity and water, and then test your shower. If it's not working properly, hire a professional to double-check your work. If that's the case, you have a faulty shower. That is extremely rare (assuming you purchase a reputable brand of shower), but it does occur on occasion.
But, hopefully, everything will be fine. If this is the case, you may discard your old shower. Check the regulations in your area.
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