A Visual Guide to Installing a New Kitchen Countertop

1. 1

   Determine the size of the worktop. Hold a measuring tape against the wall to see how much space you have. If your old worktop is still in place, it can be used to provide an estimate. Plan on connecting two slabs or dividing a slab into two pieces with a diagonal cut when building around a corner. [1]

   • Measure the available space for non-square worktops, then carefully plan how you'll make your cuts.
   • Wooden worktops expand and contract significantly. When using them, allow 5 mm (0. 20 in) of space between the wood and the wall Leave 30 mm (1 inch) 2 in) separating the wood from a freestanding oven

   EXPERT TIP

   

   Mr. Mitchell Newman

   Professional in Construction

   Mitchell Newman is the Principal of Chicago-based Habitar Design and its sister company Stratagem Construction. He has 20 years of construction, interior design, and real estate development experience.

   

   Consider the durability of the material you choose. "Quartz is one of the best materials for countertops because it's very durable," says Mitchell Newman, Principal of Habitar Design and Stratagem Construction. It's also non-porous, which makes staining difficult. It is available in a variety of colors, ranging from a modern clear grey to veined marble styles. Another excellent material is quartzite, also known as stone quartz. It is difficult to stain and is relatively uncommon, but it is slightly more expensive. Worktops made of granite, marble, and limestone are also available, but they are more porous. "

2. 2

   Make the measurements on the counters. Trace the measurements you took directly onto the worktop slabs. You can order your worktops pre-cut in whatever material you prefer. If you have pre-cut material, only do this if the worktops are too large or need to be divided.

   • Worktops can be made of wood, laminate, granite, or another material.

   Advertisement

3. 3

   Tape over the measurements to make them visible while cutting. Apply masking tape to each cutting line. Dark lines don't show up well on dark worktops, and you'll be wearing safety goggles while the saw kicks up sawdust, so the yellow helps you keep track of where you're going. When you're finished with the cuts, you can remove the masking tape. [2]

4. 4

   Wear goggles and a face mask. Take safety precautions before sawing worktop pieces. Wear goggles to protect your eyes from chipped material. Face masks provide additional protection and may be worth the money. [3]

5. 5

   Shape the worksurface The type of saw required is determined by the material to be cut. A jigsaw can make precise cuts in a variety of materials. When cutting stone, such as marble, use a diamond-tipped circular saw. Cut off the excess material carefully until you've formed the necessary worktops.

   • Your cuts will be rougher than factory-made cuts. If possible, plan to hide your cuts against a wall or under a joining strip.

6. 6

   Determine the location of the sink and cooktop. Both of these features necessitate a lot of room. Move the worktop to the location where it will be installed to get the most accurate estimate. Locate the water line for the sink and the gas or electrical lines for the cooktop or hob, as these are where the holes will be cut. [4]

   • These features should never be used on the joints between two worktop pieces.

7. 7

   Draw the sink and cooktop on the worktop's surface. Flipping them over and laying them on the worktop surface is an easy way to accomplish this. The guiding lines can be made using masking tape and a marker pen. Before cutting, invert all of the lines by 5 to 10 mm (0. 20 to 0 39 in) This is because the edges of these features hang over the worktop and do not fall through. [5]

   • Some sinks and cooktops include templates that can be traced on the worktop.

8. 8

   Using a jigsaw, cut out the traced areas. Put on your safety equipment once more and start the same saw you used before. Cut both holes with care. Remember that a small cut can always be repaired, but a large one cannot. [6]

9. 9

   Worktop rough edges should be filed down. Purchase a fine file or sandpaper from a home improvement store. Smooth over the utility holes as well as the outer edges of the worktop. The worktops are ready for installation when they feel level rather than sharp.

Advertisement

1. 1

   Place the support frame in the center of the worktop. When assembling multiple worktops, begin with the one in the back or center. Invite some friends over to help you lift the worktops onto the supports. Large worktops are heavy and can leave an unsightly scratch on other surfaces. [7]

   • Assemble the worktop so that it fits snugly on the supports and is flush with the wall.

2. 2

   Purchase an aluminum joining strip. These strips are the most convenient way to connect two worktop pieces without causing damage. If you are only installing a single worktop slab, you will not require them. They are available for purchase online or in a home improvement store. [8]

   • You won't have to drill any holes because the strip comes pre-drilled. It is extremely simple to set up.
   • Miter joints can also be used to join worktop pieces together. This entails using a jig to cut shapes into the worktop's edges. Because this is a delicate project, you should hire a skilled tradesperson.

3. 3

   On the joining strip, mark the width of the worktop. If you discarded the previous measurements, re-roll the tape measure. The aluminum strip is intended to be placed on the edge of a worktop piece that will come into contact with another piece. Trace the measurement onto the strip so that you can cut it to size. [9]

4. 4

   Cut the joining strip to the desired length. Once you've determined the length of the strip, clamp it to your cutting table. Take a hacksaw and cut off the end you don't need. Hold the joining strip up to the worktop's cut edge to double-check. [10]

5. 5

   Attach the joining strip to the worktop with screws. Place the joining strip against the edge of the worktop that will be connected to the other worktop piece. Use 16 mm (0 63 in) wood screws in the pre-drilled holes to secure the joining strip to the worktop [11]

   • Spreading silicone sealant over the edge first is a good way to ensure waterproofing, but it is not required.

6. 6

   Slide the remaining worktop pieces into place. Place the next worktop piece on top of the supports. By now, the edges should have been filed down as needed. If desired, apply a layer of silicone sealant to the edge of the joining strip. Then simply slide the worktop's edge into the strip to secure it. [12]

   • Any worktop should be fine with the silicone sealant.

7. 7

   Select a drill bit that is shallower than the worktop. A long drill bit will pierce the worktop's surface. That's a bad way to ruin a new worktop, so match your drill bit to the thickness of the worktop. Ideally, it should be able to drill through the supports and into the worktop without coming out the top. [13]

   • One technique is to mark the depth with masking tape. For example, obtain a 2 mm (0 (0.79 in) drill bit Wrap the tape 38 mm (1 inch). 5 in) down from the tip as a depth guide.

8. 8

   Drill three holes into each support. It is beneficial to use a clamp to keep the worktop in place while drilling. Locate the wooden supports beneath the worktop. Drill a hole at each end of the support, then a third in the center. Do this with both supports, lining up the holes as much as possible. [14]

   • If your worktop has cabinets, drill the supports in each one as well. That's three holes per support, for a total of six per section.
   • Instead, your worktop kit may include brackets to install.

9. 9

   Attach the worktop to the supports with screws. Get 38 mm (1 5 inch) screws Put one in each hole you drilled. Twist them until they are snug. When done correctly, the worktop will not budge when moved. [15]

Advertisement

1. 1

   Calculate the width of the free edges of the worktop. The outside edge of the material where it was cut is the part you want to measure. It should already be smooth and filed. You'll need to measure the length of the exposed edge so you can cover it with a similar material strip.

   • Another method is to tape the covering material to the edge of the worktop.
   • You will not need to do this if you are using a non-synthetic surface. Leave the smoothed edges visible.

2. 2

   Size the laminate strips These strips will come with the countertop. Mark the length you require, then trim the excess material with scissors. You may also need to trim a little off the top and bottom to get the strip to fit perfectly on the edge of the worktop. [16]

   • You'll need 1 strip for each exposed cut. That's a total of two for one worktop or connected worktops.

3. 3

   Apply contact adhesive to the strips and the worktop edge. Contact adhesive is a strong glue that will keep your worktop in place. You can find some at your local home improvement store. Dip a brush in adhesive and carefully paint it onto the laminate strip and the edge of the worktop. [17]

   • Keep the area ventilated by opening a window for safety. Cover the worktop's surface with a cloth to prevent adhesive from dripping on it.

4. 4

   Allow 15 minutes for the adhesive to dry. Place the laminate strips on a towel on the counter, adhesive side up. The adhesive will have dried after about 15 minutes. To find out how long your specific brand of adhesive needs to dry, read the instructions on the container. [18]

5. 5

   Attach the laminate to the edges of the worktop. Pick up the laminate strips once the adhesive has dried. Align them with the worktop's cut outer edges. When you press them to the edges, they'll stay in place. [19]

6. 6

   File the laminate strips' rough edges down. Wear down the strips with a fine file or sandpaper until they are as smooth as the rest of the worktop. A crafting knife can help if the laminate sticks out at all. Hold it flat against the worktop and shave off the excess material carefully.

Advertisement

1. 1

   Apply sealant to the worktop's cut inside edges. Protect the wooden supports from water damage before installing the sink or cooktop. Many of these devices include simple-to-apply sealing putty. You can also use PVC glue or silicone paste to coat the sides of the hole you cut. [20]

2. 2

   Insert the sink or cooktop into the hole. Place each one in the holes you made for them. They will fit snugly inside if done correctly. The sink and cooktop will not fall through because their tops overhang the worktop surface.

3. 3

   Screw in the sink and cooktop. Whichever one you're installing most likely came with all the screws you'll require. If you don't have enough, you can get more at a hardware store. The size you require is determined by the type of sink or cooktop you have. For more information, refer to the owner's manual. [21]

Advertisement

Pose a Question